After leaving the lake, we sat back, enjoyed the cool breeze and the magnificent greenery of the Angkor Archaeological Park. Being so far outside of the town, with no cars and scooters, the air is so fresh and clean. It wasn’t long before Theoun (Chan) stopped the tuk tuk at the next temple on our tour.
Before getting out of the tuk tuk, Theoun (Chan) told us to look around, as we were actually in the middle of a baray (A baray is an artificial body of water). This particular baray, known as East Baray, which was once filled with water, is now empty.
This baray was apparently built around the year 900 AD and was fed by the Siem Reap River, flowing down from the Kulen Hills. It was apparently the second-largest baray in the Angkor region (after the West Baray), and one of the largest man-made water reservoirs on Earth.
Although the East Baray today contains no water, farmers still farm crops in this area. As this was once a bed of a water reservoir, the soil is more fertile.
The outline of the baray is still clearly visible in satellite photographs.
The East Mebon temple, was built in the middle of the baray, on elevated ground. In the days when the baray contained water, this temple was on an island that could only be reached by boat.
The East Mebon temple is a 10th Century temple built during the reign of King Rajendravarman and was dedicated to the Hindu god Shiva and honours the parents of the king.
The East Mebon temple has two enclosing walls and three tiers and was constructed with sandstone, brick, laterite and stucco. At the top is a central tower, on a square platform, surrounded by four smaller towers at the platform’s corners.
This temple was restored in the 1930’s by two French conservators. Its main attraction is its intricate lintels, that are very well preserved and are among the best in Angkor. You can see the carved lintels about the door in the photograph below.
Being South Africans, the main attraction for us, were the elephants that guard every corner of each tier and the pair of sculptures lions guarding the stairways. Two of Africa’s big five used as protectors of this temple. And of course, the elephant, the logo for ESL for LIFE and my spirit animal.
It was clear to see that the ground around this temple was once a very fertile lake bed as the lush, dense surrounding jungle is abundant with a variety of trees in various shades of green. Standing elevated on the temple, we had magnificent views of the surrounding jungle.
After walking around East Mebon, in the sweltering heat, it was as if we had gone back in time. Back in time to when this baray was filled with water and we had to swim back to our tuk tuk. We were both drenched in sweat and looked like two drowned rats! It was time to call it a day.
On the drive home, Theoun (Chan) took a detour to a Buddhist monastery in town. Wat Thmey temple provides visitors with a harrowing reminder of the “killing fields” and what happened in Cambodia during the Pol Pot regime.
Visiting historical sites like these, can be quite an emotional experience. However, as we live here in Cambodia it is important for us to learn about the history of this country, in order to understand its culture and its people better.
Knowing more about the genocide and what happened during the Khmer Rouge, has given us a new found respect for the Khmer people and what they endured not that long ago in the history of this country.
Our next blog will be a harrowing reminder of this genocide as it is very important that what happened here in Cambodia, is never forgotten!