In order to reach the temple of Neak Pean, which is situated on an island in the middle of a man-made lake, we had to walk across a metal walkway (which has replaced an old wooden walkway).
The artificial lake, (known as the Jayatataka) stretches a half kilometer by 900 meters. The water from this lake is used to irrigate the rice fields during the dry season.
It was an unsteady, very hot and sweaty walk, in the blistering heat, to get across to the island.
When we reached the island, we followed a path, thankfully shaded by trees and natural vegetation to the Neak Pean temple.
This small temple complex is believed to also have been constructed in the 12th century by King Jayavarman VII.
Neak Pean is said to represent Anavatapta, a mythical lake in the Himalayas that is described as having four springs spewing from the mouths of a lion, an elephant, a horse, and an ox. The waters of this mythical lake are believed to cure illness.
The name Anavatapta means “heat-free”. It is said that the waters of this mythical lake were able to soothe the fires that torment beings.
Anavatapta is also the name of a mythical dragon that was believed to live in the waters of the lake. This dragon was free from the distresses that plagued other dragons; hence the waters of the lake were believed to be healing.
Neak Pean, encircled by two nagas (sculptures of serpents) and surrounded by four smaller square pools, with its central pond that drains into four surrounding ponds, through gargoyles shaped like a lion, an elephant, a horse, and a man, is believed to represent this mythical lake of the Himalayas.
It is uncertain though, why one of the gargoyles, was fashioned as a man and not as an ox as in the mythical lake of Anavatapta.
The Neak Pean temple, sits in the middle of a large, central square pool. The temple itself is quite small.
According to Theoun (Chan), the ancient Khmers believed that bathing in these pools would have restored balance within the body and cured illness, or at least washed away sin. It was also believed that the waters of the pool were used for ritual purification rites.
Local Khmer people still come to this temple to give offerings and to pray for those who need healing from illness. We were fortunate to witness a young family coming to give an offering. After making the offering, the young father then scooped some water out of the central pool, possibly to take home for the ill person they had prayed for, to bathe with, as part of the healing process.
In the pool around the central island, there apparently were once four statues, but only one remains, which was reconstructed from the debris by archaeologists.
Due to recent rains, the pool was quite full, so we could only see the top of the statue. The statue is actually a body of a horse, supported by a tangle of human legs.
A replica of this statue decorates the main roundabout at Siem Reap International Airport and represents Avalokiteshvara, a being of infinite compassion, willing to bear the pains of others and known to help all beings in danger and distress.
We will be sure to look out for this statue when we go past this roundabout again.
I was quite fascinated by this make shift bench, that appeared to have been put together from the remains found on this temple site. A perfect place to sit and rest.
This was yet again another peaceful experience. Visiting this unusual temple site, surrounded by natural vegetation and the gentle moving waters of the lake, with only the whispering sounds of nature was actually healing, just like Theoun (Chan) said.
Although we are doing our best to share these experiences with you by writing this blog and taking photographs etc. it really is an experience that can only really be appreciated by actually being there. Hopefully our blog post will inspire others to visit Cambodia and to come and experience the wonders of this ancient civilization.
We took a leisurely stroll back along the walkway and hopped back on our tuk tuk, looking forward to the cool breezy tuk tuk drive to East Mebon Temple, our last stop for the day.
